In December:
Asheville, NC, and Charleston, SC

Buenos Aires

An impressive city in every way. The weather is gorgeous, the people are incredibly friendly, the food is delicious and the sights are memorable -- ever seen tango dancers tricked out in punk fashion? Whether you’re a fan of opera, dancing ‘til dawn or just sipping wine at a café and watching the world go by, the strong dollar and southern hemisphere weather make this a great time to visit Buenos Aires.

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

For a stunning souvenir, look for indigenous items created by skilled artisans. In the Recoleta neighborhood (think Upper East Side), Wayra concentrates on leather and personal accessories; a hefty leather bowl in Hermes orange came home with me for $110, but the silver earrings and silk knotted scarves were equally appealing and a great value. Tierra Adentro shows exuberantly colored of textiles, beautifully upholstered Parsons chairs and footstool. Just down the street at Quarenta, equally creative applications of fabrics update vintage furniture and are mixed with colorful local art. Plan to be in town on Sunday to experience the vibrant San Telmo Market at the Plaza Dorrego, where booths displaying copper, leather, vintage jewelry (some very fine) and other goods dear to a junker’s heart share the plaza with hawkers, tango dancers and open air cafes. You could fill an apartment with furniture from the labyrinthine Mercado las Pulgas flea market adjacent to Palermo Veijo. Other shops in Palermo Viejo are peopled with lithe young things; Balthazar caters to an up-market male clientele with hand made scarves and colorful neckwear, designer Nadine Zlotogora women’s clothing line is an homage to Dries van Noten, and bold, graphic tiles blanket the façade and floor of a colorful Mercer, an up-market tee shirt gallery.

From flea markets to upscale boutiques, Buenos Aires offers something for every shopper, but be warned, not in every size. The women’s clothing here seems to be cut small, smaller and smallest and women over size 8 will have trouble finding a fit, so stick to the accessories. Men will have the advantage of finding a fit at James Smart, a haberdasher with classic styling, and scoring some bargains at Guido, where the second floor parlor location provides a glimpse of old Buenos Aires. There are shopping malls; Patios Bullrich in the Recoleta, and Gallerias Pacifico and Calle Florida in neighboring Retiro, for an overview of Porteno style. No surprise in this land of cattle, the most interesting wares are usually made of leather and suede. One of the best stops for jackets, belts and bags is Casa Lopez opposite Plaza San Martin, where a quilted suede vest rang up at $158.

CHECKING IN

Buenos Aires’ main barrios are grouped from the river inland. Recoleta and its neighboring Retiro and Barrio Norte neighborhoods are upscale enclaves that offer plenty of rooming options. Suipacha Y Arroyo Suites has a zen courtyard and large double rooms with kitchenettes, booked on line for about $64 a night, (beware of up charging if you are planning on extending your stay and paying on site). Slightly shabby linens are made up for by a bountiful breakfast buffet and a prime location in Retiro’s embassy district a short walk from either Recoleta's elegant streets and shops, or a pleasant stroll past the government center’s impressive marble buildings and the president’s Rose Palace. Hotel Bel Air in Barrio Norte is a hipper destination featuring sleek, neutrally decorated rooms blocks from the magnificent Teatro Colon on Calle Arenales, a fine shopping and gallery district. At $90 per night with breakfast, you’ll have some cash left to shop. Near to San Telmo, the NH Hotel is equally modern, with more spacious rooms and better views. For a splurge, the Sofitel in a renovated building in the embassy district, and the venerable Alvear Palace, with it’s enveloping service, has been the choice of visiting dignitaries although the newly renovated Hyatt and the soon-to-open Phillipe Starck-designed Faena Universe Hotel in Puerto Madero are challenging the Alvear’s luxurious dominance.

Argentina TRAVEL TIPS

Be cautious! Argentina’s economic devaluation makes it a great place for Americans and Europeans to visit (the AR peso is 1/3 the value of the dollar) but it’s no picnic for the citizens who lost 2/3 of their income. Crimes of opportunity are on the rise, so leave your valuables and home and carry little cash. Use cash stations in populated areas.

From the airport, stick to Manuel Tienda Leon, a large, well-run company of remises (hired cars) especially recommended by expatvillage.com. In town, don’t hesitate to flag down radio taxis, distinguished by the signage on all four doors. Take the card offered by your radio cab, and have the restaurant or bar call them for your return ride.

Argentineans speak Castilian Spanish, so the double-l is pronounced like a J. “Ciao” is the accepted good-bye word. Any attempt to speak Spanish will be rewarded with a smile and an outpouring of English.

Argentineans are still in the throes of an economic crisis, so don’t flash cash, exclaim over prices or wear flashy jewelry, even if it’s costume. Don’t rest your Rolex-encumbered wrist on the open window of the cab, and be careful walking around San Telmo and Palermo Viejo/Soho at night.

Argentineans like to toast with their wine, and look you straight in the eye when doing so. Likewise, people on the street have a direct gaze, and the women size up other women from head to toe. Return the favor, accompanied by the delicious local red wine, malbec.

Purchase ticket from Aeorolineas Argentinas before departing from the states. The Portenos are traveling in droves and tickets sell out. All flights originate from Buenos Aires’ municipal airport, Aeroparque, so to fly from region to region, you will be doubling back and changing planes in the city. Connections can be tricky, so book by phone: 800-333-0276

Portenos (as people in Buenos Aires are called) dress more formally; women pair jeans with boots and tailored tops and men sport suits and ties Monday trough Friday. People in the countryside are much less formal, but you will not see them wearing sweat suits or sneakers except to work out.