The Fashion Editor

HOW I LOVE PARIS

For the past several years I have been lucky enough to visit Paris on a regular basis. I am still mesmerized by the women in the streets striding over cobblestones in 3 -or-four-inch heels, the older ladies smartly turned out in suits with VERY short skirts and sensible shoes or boldly matching their husbands in head-to-toe leather, and the way everyone -- men and women -- look so dashing in their casually wrapped scarves. And, of course, I've never tired of some of the most scrumptious window shopping in the world.

Many people just want to shop all day long in Paris; do so if you must, or join the rest of the population at a nice restaurant for a leisurely noontime meal. Many of the stores are closed from 12:30 - 2, so you may as well fortify yourself for a long afternoon, since many of the boutiques you will want to visit are open until 7. Since France is now trading on the euro - right on par with the dollar - things are more expensive in both stores and restaurants. I brought the Michelin Red Guide and used it to choose every restaurant, in Paris and in small towns all over Bordeaux, and was never disappointed.

SHOPPING

Note: now that the euro is here, shops are no longer giving out the computer generated or handwritten itemized receipts - you must ask! Do so, otherwise you will be out your VAT refund. The credit card receipts won't cut it.

Another note: Arm yourself with "Paris par Arrondisement", a tiny, portable book with maps of every street in Paris, with an easy-to-understand index. Indispensible, especially when touring the Marais or plotting the quickest way to return to your hotel by metro.

DJULA PARIS sacs, bijoux, accessoires de mode 83, rue des Saints-Peres and 234 rue de Rivoli
Tons of stylish accessories for what I'd consider a bargain - faux-bakelite handles purse with crocheted flowers and groovy fringe for 60 euros; a great embroidered wrap (a pashimina update) in black with white flowers, the same. Excellent handbags, belts and jewelry echo the best designer looks of the season. A must.

ETRO 177, boulevard Saint Germain
I love this store, and the one on Madison Avenue in New York - beautiful quality ready-to-wear for men and women that really sets it's own style. Classically beautiful with a vaguely hippy edge, the designers here are not afraid of color. This season's paisley Kashmir-inspired separates are divine. I sprung for a small neck scarf, which I wore every day of my trip. Only wish my husband would try one of their dandy-ish shirt and tie combinations, but I must resign myself to his amused browsing of the fire-engine red courderoy jacket with magenta sweater.

BON MARCHE 22 rue de Sevres
I wish all department stores were like this - the energy, quantity and quality of the designer collections is the best. Lots of affordable accessories on the first floor and an amazing selection of designers for women on 3 - Viktor & Rolf, Veronique Branquhino, Dries Van Noten, Helmut Lang, Marni, Balenciaga - all designers of the moment. Try 'em all.

COLETTE 213 rue Saint Honore
It is still one of the stops for all fashionistas who visit or live in the city of light. It is always packed - both with people and with some of the best stuff out there - in every category. I'm kicking myself for not trying the Yohji Yamamoto for Adidas track she - went back a few days later and they were all gone - even the display pair!

STEPHANE MARAIS 217 rue Saint Honore
The makeup shop of the moment. Loud, exciting and fun.

JACQUES LE CORRE 193, rue Saint Honore
Loved the creative, original hats and shoes by this designer. Footwear in brilliant colors, hats in interesting shapes. The service is very friendly and the wares well worth looking into.

ASTIER DE VILLATTE 173 rue Saint Honore
White porcelain hand-thrown pottery in many sizes, shapes, and all beckoningly beautiful. It's a small store left behind in time - the little rooms are strangely shaped and musty and this organinc dinnerwear - and the accompanying tees by designer Diane de Clerq (you've seen her stuff at Barneys) work so well in combination. Why need everything be so modern? This store is not, and I love it.

VERCOURT PARIS 4, rue du Marche St-Honore
On a little side street up from the pricey rue Saint Honore is this little street with some good shops - Vercourt has well priced, beautifully designed men's suits and accessories. We bought my husband a shirt and tie in great shades for just about 100 euros. Again, lots of quality for a little price.

THE MARAIS
I love this neighborhood; the one area not redone during the redesign of Paris streets by Baron Hausmann. Give yourself lots of time to linger - there are more little alleys, courtyards and unexpected corners in this neighboirhood than in any Paris arrondisement I've explored.

LES ANTIQUAIRES DE LA MODE (the antiques dealers of fashion) 11, rue D'Ormesson
Scored a perfect, cropped, tweed vintage Valentino jacket here for almost nothing. If you adore Dior, Chanel and other designers, head here for a buy.

ANTIK BATIK Paris 38, rue de Vaugirard
This store has never veered from the 1970's hippy chic clothing and accessories for men and women. The children's clothing is about as cute as it gets. . .

FIFI DE VEM 17, rue de Turenne
... except for this store. Absolutely adorable clothes for kids - the kind that helps them continue looking like children - not shrunken parental counterparts. Tons of colorful choices, including orange mohair jackets and other spiffy stuff for tiny tots.

COMPTOIRE DE L'IMAGE 44 rue de Sevigne
Vintage and first edition fashion books and magazines, in uncountable and glorious excess. I could spend hours here, and spend major bucks, but alas, for me, the euro has made that impossible. You can still browse, though.

ENTREE DES FOURNISSEURS 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois
In a little courtyard off a small street is a store full of trims, embroidery, fabric passementarie and tons of other stuff that creative types love. If you sew at all, this store is a must.

LE MONDE SAUVAGE 21, rue de Sevigne
A wild selection of colorful Far Eastern fabrics for home.

LA LICORNE 38, rue de Sevigne
More costume jewelry than I've eve seen in one place; some of it junk, some of it great.

LE DETOUR 12, rue de Turenne
The nice monsieur who runs this shop loves to practice his English on visitors. He is kind and accommodating and his place is full of colorful jewel-toned glassware, 'torchons" (kitchen towels) and table linens. The glass selection is especially nice, and well-priced for gifting.

GALERIES LAFAYETTE 40, bd Hausmann and in Montparnasse
This is the place to pick up your stash of Petite Bateau tee shirts - pick up the 10% off discount card at your hotel and bring your passport for another 15% off.

Hotels, 7th Arrondisement

I always stay here since it's in the midst of great shopping, is close to the river to pop over to the Right Bank, and has lots of little hotels for comparison shopping.

HOTEL LENOX St Germain
lenoxsaintgermain.com
9, rue de l'Universite
I'm staying here the next time since rooms start at 135 Euros and are proclaimed by the desk staff to be larger than average. I know you spend little time in your hotel room, but it helps if there is enough floor space to have two suitcases open at one time! I also find rooms with a bath rather than just a shower are generally larger.

HOTEL DE SAINT GERMAIN
hotel-saint-germain.com
50, rue du Four
Very cute hotel with an accommodating desk staff. Typically small rooms, but on this busy street we heard traffic all night. Not much you can do about that in any Paris hotel at this price.

HOTEL SAINT THOMAS D'AQUIN
4, rue Pres des Clercs (at rue de l'Universite)
Teeny, quiet rooms, newly done in brown and taupe - less than fabulous for a room with no light; rather than appearing chic, seemed dingy, but it was just the color combo! Small, small rooms, priced the same as larger. If you book; ask for a front room - I snuck a peek and they seemed larger. For 105 euros, though, not bad. I'd stay here again if I knew I had a larger room despite their lesser -quality morning baguettes.

RESTAURANTS

It is always best to phone ahead for a reservation -- your hotel desk clerk will be happy to help if you are shy about speaking French.

VIN & MAREE 165, rue Saint-Honore 01 42 86 06 96
As soon as you are seated, friendly waiters swoop in to place a large bowl of succulent coques (cockles - tiny, exquisite clams steamed in cream) on your table. Peruse the all-seafood menu and choose an unfamiliar fish for the best experience - whole sole and turbot, simply grilled with herbs, or a la meuniere are excellent. I also always ask for a green salad, since the restaurants in Paris are big on protein but lagging a little in the green veggie category.

LE BISTRO D'HUBERT 41, boulevard Pasteur 01 47 34 15 50
Many Parisian restaurants are closed on Sundays - this is a good one that remains open. A very nice mix'n match prix fixe menu - and the salad includes my beloved haricots verts (tender tiny green beans). Next time we visit, I will sit at the kitchen counter and watch the chef make his delicious sauces, including the butter sauce for the rouget - the tiny red snapper like Mediterranean fish.

CAFE MARLY courtyard at the Louvre
If it's a warmish day, score a table outside and watch a united nations worth of visitors file into the Louvre. A simple omlette with fines herbes, a mountain of sauteed seasonal mushrooms, a half bottle of Sancerre and you'll be in heaven. Or try the salmon and tuna tartare combinations. Hamburgers, too.